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I Stay Blessed Up

The traveler seeks guides, adventure, companionship & human affection. “Do you want to crash here for a night?” “Would you like to stay for dinner?” These words are music to the ears. Without local wisdom I have nothing. My journey is aligned with the energy that surrounds me.

The traveler longs for a place to stay and quite naturally for new acquaintances. There are times I’ve set out without knowing anyone on the other side of the seas. This is part of the anticipation. To enter into a distant land knowing not a soul…to leave an entire family behind. Meeting new friends and establishing life-long relationships…this is the traveler’s mission.

Hotels are a last resort. Hotels are cold, isolated, expensive places, the stomping ground of tourists. Tourists want nothing to do with the people beyond the services they have come to expect from them. I would highly prefer to contribute some money to a family’s dinner and collective merriment than to squander it on a hotel. This strategy has worked wonders from Casablanca to Cartagena, from Belfast to Belo Horizonte.

The University of the West Indies

A few days before arriving in Kingston, I reached out to the Guyanese and St. Lucian Youth Councils –with whom I had worked before- to see if they knew any student and youth leaders in Jamaica. Two contacts in Georgetown and Castries initiated a Facebook chain message that instantaneously linked me to eight Jamaican student leaders. Who would respond? Who would be available to build? The anticipation mounted.

Kordell responded a few days later. He offered to meet me at a lecture I was attending at the University of the West Indies on “African Liberation in the Humanities” given by Dr. John Ayotunde Isola Bewaji.   I hoped that he would recognize me on this massive campus as my chances of recognizing him were slimmer. I was overwhelmed at the awesome campus which hosts tens of thousands of students from 18 different Caribbean nations. After the lecture, a short, sturdy, balding young man extended his large hand to greet me: “Professor Shaw, I am Kordell.” We stuck around and mingled with the students and professors of the Philosophy department taking advantage of a buffet and good conversation.

After an hour or so, Kordell offered to show me some night life around Kingston. We exited the auditorium towards one of the parking lots that dotted the vast Mona West Indies Campus. I stood in his way blocking the driver’s door confusing it with the passenger’s side entrance which is on the opposite side in the U.S. We jumped in his old Fiesta Ford, a steady-old jalopy.   He needed some petrol to keep us moving so that was our first stop. After putting in $2000 Jamaican dollars (US$20) of gas, Kordell asked permission to ask me a question. “Of course shoot away,” I responded. “Do you play Call of Duty?” “Call of Duty” I thought to myself, “what are we going to do tonight? Play video-games? Are you serious? I thought we were going out for a night on the town?” That gut feeling ran through me. After my pause, I told him “I don’t know much about the video-game generation but my 12 year old son certainly does.” “No, no, no Ah no I mean…” he stuttered. I was curious where this conversation was going. After more awkward stumbling around the question, he withdrew a 9 millimeter automatic glock from the back of his pants. The brief second appeared an eternity. “I have to let you know if we go out together in New Kingston, I carry this.” I cracked a smile and said “Well I appreciate that. But I was just thinking we would share a few beers and some jerk chicken. Something low key. Not any gun battles with local posses from Tivoli Gardens and Trenchtown.” “No, no, no” he responded diffidently. He was now embarrassed.

“You see my father was working. He did security for private buildings near Cherry Gardens. He earned a mere pittance but worked hard his whole life. He never complained. He just did what he had to for all of us.” I again wondered where this was all going. He was staring off in the distance as he spoke. “He got murdered a few years ago. Some thieves tried to enter past a gate and opened fire on him.” He looked at his glock as if it was nodding back at him, “All dese bad man, that’s why I stay blessed up.”

Tivoli

Capitalism Kills

Kordell continued with his story. He had dropped out of the university after the tragedy and was still trying to find himself three years later. He had stayed in touch with the Jamaica Youth Council in hopes of affecting positive change for young people navigating realities of violence and its aftermath.   The story was heartbreaking and made me think about how the contradictions of this society affect and harden peaceful people. The crime statistics in Jamaica are alarming. With 1,193 murders last year, it rates as one of the most violent countries in the world.[1] And who are the victims? Like Kordell’s father, everyday working class folks trying to eke out a meager existence. Protected on the other side of town, far away from Drewsland, Waterhouse and Tivoli, the rich don’t have to worry about being caught in the crossfire.

Neither of us any longer had any appetite for nightlife. We just shared stories, ate some food and talked the night away. Having lost a sister and other family to drugs and violence, I knew I could be a good listener and source of strength for this young brother with his whole life ahead of him.   The tragedies -tucked away deep into the night- made me remember another reason I had traveled to Kingston.

I grew up playing basketball with a kid from Kingston named Clayton. Exceptionally slight and quick, he was the point guard of our high school team. I remember he was a hustler too always trying to put food on the table for his mom and younger siblings. One foot on the court another in the streets was the motto he lived by. A few years after graduating he got caught up in retaliatory violence over drugs with some Cape Verdean kids who were also mixed up in the game. The cruel paradox! The sons of two displaced nations -forced to migrate to a faraway land alien to their being and interests- duked it out over crumbs from an international economic system that had monopolized the resources of their homelands. His retribution crime landed him a 10 year bid in a federal prison. The government then deported him back to Kingston.   I wondered if I could track him down so many years later but no one from the old crew had any leads. I shared his story with Kordell, left to imagine that Clayton may either be dead or in the General Penitentiary.

The seemingly unrelated stories that accumulated that night begged the question of how many lives are unnecessarily stolen by this brutal system? Bob Marley’s eloquent lyrics beamed out: “Oh why can’t we roam? There’s open country. Why can’t we be what we want to be? We want to be free.” The silence had the last word and Kordell and I were left to ponder the insanity of it all.  We shook our heads at the whole design -a common melancholy and rage shared between us- until we drifted off to sleep.

Old Harbor

When I woke up the next morning he asked me if I was up for a little road trip. He offered to show me the neighborhood where he grew up outside of Old Harbor, a city of 30,000 an hour east of Kingston. When we arrived, we set out on foot around Old Harbor Bay a sea-side village where most families survived off of fishing.

We visited some Haitian families who had left their homeland and arrived in fishing boats in search of better opportunities in another oppressed land, perhaps a few rungs elevated above theirs in Dante’s neoliberal inferno. The conversation revealed how the families had been in Jamaica for over 15 years but still suffered discrimination for being ‘foreigners.” Right on cue, two Mormons strolled by in their customary white shirts with a tie and a name tag. I playfully asked three neighborhood children “Hey who are those guys?” to see what my question would elicit. One of them responded “White man.” I thought well shucks I may as well be the same as them then but asked nonetheless “And Who am I?” “Brown man” the same tike responded.   I was proud to be of a different category than the missionaries. That was a first. This brought a smile to my face. Things were looking up.

Kordell introduced me to his younger siblings and his mom who was turning 50 that day. He told me he was the lucky one. His brother Shane stayed behind to fend for the family. Kordell called him on an old track cell phone and he raced from the countryside on his bicycle. He was carrying two large sacks of coal and sweating under the blazing sun. Every day he rode an hour into the countryside to cut down trees and burn them for charcoal which he sold to families that needed it for cooking. He earned $20,000 Jamaican dollars or $200 U.S. on a good month.

With the sun peaking above us, the humidity in the zinc-roofed shack was unbearable. I looked down in front of me and saw a crate full of plastic soda bottles full of green, blue and pink liquids. My mouth watered thinking about the milk-shake like beverage. I asked how much for a bottle? Shane said “one hundred” which is a dollar. I asked “which flavor is good?”  He said “they are all good.”  I picked one out and twisted off the cap tilting it above my mouth anticipating the quenching of my thirst before Shane’s mother intervened: “No! No! That is not to drink! That’s detergent.” The whole family laughed. That was a close one. Shane sold the detergent around the city. I asked him “How many jobs do you have? “As many as we need” was the working man’s answer.

Farewells

It was time to leave. I was traveling to Morant Bay to unearth the legacy of the legendary Baptist preacher and slave rebel Paul Bogle. I would stay with another wonderful family which had its own unique circumstances and struggles.  I shared this simple solemn human story to show how connections are made. I now had contacts and friends in towns I had never even heard of. Realistically, even if I could never return, how beautiful to be in touch with this humble family, the salt of the earth!

The traveler discovers revelry but also tragedy, joyful escapism but also harrowing reality.   The trick is to roll with the punches, to be at one with the wind, to ride the momentum to see where it takes you. Upon departing in torrential downpours, Kordell and his family expressed worry that I would get lost. After a round of hugs, handshakes and mutual gratitude, I thanked them and told them “Don’t worry, I stay blessed up!”

[1] Statistics provided by the U.S. State Department.

1 COMMENT

  1. Another excellent piece. If I may be allowed to offer some constructive criticism:

    a) > > who I had done some work with before > should be: with whom I’d worked before. b) > > We jumped in his old Fiesta Ford, a steady-old jalopy if I ever saw one. > sb – delete if ever I saw one

    > But I was just thinking we would grab like a beer or two and some jerk chicken. > Also later you say we grabbed some food – you didn’t grab food – you ate it – and grab like a beer, while Ok in speech, is ghastly on the page.

    > I started cracking up. >

    no you did not – or if you did, did you go to a hospital?

    Try to read with some objectivity what you’ve written before posting it. Slang is fine if you’re quoting what someone says, but not otherwise.

    Best, always

    Alan

    PS Here’s two songs of mine, I recorded with my son in London.

    >

  2. I enjoyed this article very much. It shows that places have more to offer than just tourist attractions. I enjoyed your story about your experience with the young man Kordell, and how you were both able to share stories. You were able to enjoy the people of Jamaica and see how they live and share experiences with them.

  3. This means a lot for all of us. Because we can clearly see how powerful and determent person you are sir. Thanks for sharing your story with us, also for teaching us that there still good people out there that no matter how arduous the life they are living the still blessed up. And leaving everything behind, your family your home for go and meet another hard reality is really tough. I am glad you have the opportunity to meet wonderful people who share their story with you and treated you like you were part of their family as well.

  4. This means a lot for all of us. Because we can clearly see how powerful and determent person you are sir. Thanks for sharing your story with us, also for teaching us that there still good people out there that no matter how arduous the life they are living they still blesses up. And leaving everything behind, your family your home for go and meet another hard reality is really tough. I am glad you have the opportunity to meet wonderful people who shared their story with you and treated you like you were part of their family.

  5. Every interesting experience,I was glad to read about this. Goes to show me the reader that in other countries people are going through their things and surviving. I like the way how you were considered a “brown man” instead of a “white man” like the missionaries. The young who was kind enough to show you around is indeed a great person. Who was open enough to talk and express his feelings. Very good article.

  6. This was a really interesting experience you shared. I like the fact you showed how the lifestyle is in that country and what they really have to go through to survive. It makes me relate that it’s the same not just their but in my mother country as well. Also the fact you truly do go out and communicate with the people there, not just stay in a luxurious hotel like the majority of the people who do go visit a country abroad. The fact they considered you a brown man instead of a white man is a true sign of respect, they even made you feel as one of their own family. Also when he showed you his “protection” was really cool. Stay blessed up

  7. This is a great article to read; where the readers can learn not just about the adventures but also what the country of Jamaica and their people. I completely agree with tourist not just staying at a hotel when they visit a country but to go out and experience about the country in general. Through this article and the experiences the author share with Kordell and vice versa as a reader we get a sense of how the Jamaica society is, to be one of the violent countries of the world and to have a high murder rate. Also with Shaw’s trip to old Harbor I can see the poverty of many people living in that country. As the author point out Kordell brother on a “good month” can earn $20,000 Jamaican dollars that will be $200.00 United States dollars, I think this is a very low salary for a person in one month.

  8. This is an excellent piece that illustrates the difference in the Jamaica we see on television and in resort magazines as opposed to what goes on outside of tourist attractions. It also shows the disparities between American dollars and Jamaican dollars. This speaks to the overall economy of Jamaica and how exploitation has affected the standard of living. I think its a wonderful thing and shows your character and commitment to honoring other cultures.

  9. “The cruel paradox! The sons of two displaced nations -forced to migrate to a faraway land alien to their being and interests- duked it out over crumbs from an international economic system that had monopolized the resources of their homelands.”

    Very deep quote from your article. Very true as well. It is very unfortunate that this results from the United States’ intrusion into the Caribbean and African countries economies. The article zoomed in on a couple of realities that not many people on the northwest are exposed to. The loss of a father working an honest job, killed by thieves, the racial oppression that exists towards immigrants who arrived from another oppressed country. These are the realities that exist in the world now.

  10. To share this personal experience about your trip to Jamaica is delightful. Usually, vacation trips for many include luxurious hotel stays, nightlife in tourist locations and spending their day at the beach with close family and friends. I mean there is nothing wrong with enjoying the day in the sun in a country like Jamaica but your purpose to meet and make new friends and learn their life-style compared to the life we take for granted in the United States is much more fascinating. You shared the story of Kordell who felt embarrassed to mention he carried a 9-millimeter automatic since the murder of his father, carrying a dangerous weapon for protection in a place he calls home. This is the sad story for many in the working class group who live violently everyday in countries like Kingston.

  11. Living in certain countries of America or the Caribbean can many times be very difficult due to different situations that affect people’s lives. Kordell’s story about having more than one job is one of them, but it can also be crime and violence which nowadays the rates of such aspects are extremely high. Poverty and crime are destroying the culture and stability of many countries, so people are forced to take action by their own hands something that the authorities many times can’t handle. So it is not to be surprise that a person decides to carry a gun because violence is leading to this point. One good example is what happen to Kordell’s father while doing his job.

  12. The article was like a short story but it was also very interesting. I like the message that it gives to the audience and also by you sharing your experience about a small visit to Kingston, can actually give someone a small glimpse of how it really is. I agree with the fact that the murder rate is really high in Kingston because it is one of the most dangerous places in Jamaica. There is a lot of history there concerning violence, drugs, and people trying to fight one another just to have a high social status.

  13. This article opened my eyes to a lot of things. It not only made me appreciate the things I may take for granted, but has also opened my eyes on traveling. The opening statements, on how we solely rely on the services a hotel can provide are true. We are too busy enjoying the luxury things that come along with a vacation instead of learning of the culture and creating friendships. I admire the determination Kordell’s brother has to provide for his family, despite all the harsh realities. It was interesting to hear of Kordell’s life and gather a sense of whats occurring in Kingston, Jamaica.

  14. Families move from an oppressed country to another with a hope that there is a better way to live in that country. A lot of people carry guns for protection, this man experienced violence first hand and doesn’t want the consequences of violence to affect him. Many people carry guns for this reason and its an uncomfortable feeling knowing that anywhere and anytime violence can erupt.

  15. It can be seen through this article how different the two cultures of the U.S which is a multi cultural society is different from Kingston. Where as in the U.S people travel great lengths to avoid contact with each other and would rather stay in a hotel any day vs. Kingston where accepting strangers off the street and feeding them is encouraged. It was very heart warming to see how well Kordell and Daniel created a bond so special in such little time. Telling his story about his father and introducing his siblings and mother.

  16. The experience of a tourist in Jamaica really shows the simplicity of life and how much you want to adapt. I also agree with the comment that was made about the hotels. I do feel the same way about getting the best time in an country by living like everyone else, to taste life of what it’s really like for a native verses an outsider. Interestingly we see how the life of a Jamaican is full of great strength and chance. Very interestingly from the article, it was needed for people to carry a gun around him all the time for protection. Also seeing the great burden he and probably many others have to go through just for survival, it truly is amazing and sad. Also seeing his family go through sacrifice for each other to live another day, it is safe to say that being a citizen of the United States, we live in a society where things are almost spoon feed compared to Jamaican life.

  17. Jamaica is much more than the sandy beaches and the beautiful hotels tourists visit. This article shows that, Jamaicans struggle to survive, whether it be putting food on the table or trying to stay off the streets. It seems as if whenever they are working the hardest something occurs to set them 3 steps back, which was the case for Clayton and for Kordell. Though that won’t prevent them from trying, Cordell’s family still worked as hard as they could to make a living, which consisted of any way of making money. They will not be discouraged, life may be hard for them but they still push on, an act that is very admirable.

  18. This article was fun to read. The way it was written really helped me visualize and capture what kind of person Kordell is. I enjoyed how Kordell made a reference to something “American” in order to share how he carries a gun with him in the streets of Kingston. The subheading “capitalism kills” fit the proceeding paragraphs perfectly. Regardless of where a person is in the world, money is always the root of all evil. In my opinion, the thing that stood out the most in the article is when the children called professor Shaw a “Brown Man.” We know that physically professor Shaw most likely resembled the missionaries in terms of complexion. However, not everything is about skin tone. I feel like the children categorized him as a “Brown Man” because of the connection and efforts he was making to understand their group of people. In essence they made him one of them.

  19. Professor Shaw,

    This article does a good job in manifesting the hardships of everyday Jamaicans–such as Kordell. Further, I would assume that his story is not an isolated one. However, I do not see how the paragraphs that follow the sub-heading “capitalism kills” has anything to do with the violence or if capitalism is the main culprit. If I had to guess, you were trying to make a distinction from the wealthier people, who live in gated communities, and those who do not and how the wealthier are responsible for violence? If that is the argument, it is a flawed one. First, It is well documented that capitalism has done much more for the quality of life of humans than has other economical system in human history. Secondly, you would have to use actual evidence to make a connection between capitalism and violence. Lastly, the argument can be made that perhaps capitalism, if made available to all, would be a force to be reckon with against violence. Thanks again for this article.

    -V

  20. I love this piece. Personally my favorite because Im a huge traveler myself and can understand to appreciate a foreign country for all that it actually has to offer not just the tourism. But also enjoyed it very much because you were not like many tourist that only stayed in expensive places to see only the elegance but instead tried to understand the other side of kingston by staying with people who werent exactly so fortunate. Because they are not in the highest position of their economic system they are usually coralated with the violence and troubles of their conutry. It is an unfair truth that people have come to recognize. I can understand this because im from bolivia a place just like kingston that has two social classes very seperate with a huge gap in between (Rich and poor). Thank you for this article.

  21. Many individuals in the Caribbean live a life similar to Kordell and his family. I have many Jamaican friends who grew up in violent neighborhoods. These areas are made up of individuals who are oppressed and react to being oppressed negatively. With the Jamaican currency losing more and more of its value, the more it’s people suffer.

  22. Professor, this was a really good read. I liked how you showed the differences between the U.S. and Kingston. You talked about how the people of Kingston are more open to strangers, kindly welcoming them into their homes and feeding them, while people of the U.S. would rather pass by a homeless man in the rain than give them shelter for a night without so much as blinking. The article also spoke about things such as killings and oppression that not many people in the Northwest are informed about. The article is a real eye opener.

  23. This article was very understanding on the word “Rasta” itself. When I hear the word Rasta , the first thing that comes to mind is Jamaican men who have dreadlocks , smoke marijuana and listen to Caribbean slow music. For example , a Bob Marley image . After reading this article I have learned ‘Rastafarians’ is a unique culture in Jamaica, Kingston leading to London and New York. Rastafarians don’t consume food they have not made. They require a lifestyle of faith and discipline.Rastas indeed do smoke but every men has their own products they consume in which they simply don’t share with one another , as well as consuming alcohol .

  24. The divide between the locals and tourists reminds me of my visit to Beijing, China (especially of what I saw at the Great Wall of China). There was a stark contrast between the city and the tourist spot. The city was no different from NYC, but the exits of the Great Wall were roamed by groups of children and elderly women desperately trying to sell their products. Their desperate demeanors quickly turned into anger as they were turned away. It really made me think about the conditions they had to be in to warrant such scorn.

  25. This article was very helpful in understanding Kordell, as well as how different these two cultures are (U.S and Kingston). It was nice to read about how Kordell and Professor Shaw created a bond in a short period of time. This article speaks on the economy overall on Jamaica’s exploitation on standard living. These differences can really show one how others survive based on their economy and wealth .

  26. I enjoyed this essay very much. When people go on vacation they never really experience the culture of the country or city they are in. Pool service, 5 star restaurants, and a hot shower are the typical days while on vacation. “I stay blessed” is an article about the little things in life. About learning new experiences and interacting with real people. Getting to know where you are. The things the typical vacationer never experiences. When you met up with Kordell in Kingston, you had no idea what was going to happen and the night you had anticipated, was not the night you had. Kordell seems like the type of kid who’s hard working and respectful. Although, pulling out a gun after you were in a car with him alone, showed he had another side as well.

    When reading the experience you had, I felt a little anxiety when Kordell pulled out his gun, but after he explains why, it becomes understandable. Kordells father was murdered while working hard to support his family, which is why Kordell always carries a gun on him. The streets of Jamaica aren’t the safest and according to your article in 2014 at least 1,120+ were murdered that year alone.

    You learned about Kordells life all because you went to Jamaica in search of an old friend who was deported and when you got there you gained new friends. You saw how hard Kordell and his family worked just to keep their heads barley above water. “As many as we need” replies Kordell after displaying to you yet another job his family has, in order to survive.

    When reading this essay I felt happy knowing that there are nice friendly people in this world. Speaking for myself, who was born and raised in queens am always surprised when I hear happy stories about families and people who are willing to welcome a stranger into their homes without hesitation. Goes to show you, even when things aren’t so good in life there are still sweet welcoming people in this world.

    • I was intrigued how instead of just acting as a tourist, you dive deeper into the culture and the language. I inspire to be like you. I do wish to visit more than 5 countries around all the 7 continents. The article was also able to open my eyes in a way I have not thought about before. Every person has a way they live their based on circumstances such a financial stability, culture, the environment and so many other factors that contribute into making it a lifestyle. Kordell is a very inspiring figure who I think we should all learn from. He is very hardworking and is focused on providing to his family.
      I really liked reading about Kordell’s life in Jamaica because it helps us discover different lifestyles we do not think we would encounter on a daily basis. Something else that intrigued was how in Kingston they are open to receiving strangers off the streets. Compared to the United States where people would rather stay in hotels and not get the full experience of seeing and living a different lifestyle.

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